![]() ![]() ![]() The clear width between the wheel arches is 139 cm on the Ford Transit. This not only makes the camper extension in your Ford Transit more spacious and offers space for another cupboard, it is also much easier to move around.Ī Ford Transit Camper has the largest interior space in this vehicle class. At the same time, these 40 cm are clearly noticeable in the interior of a camper. This means that the Ford Transit remains fully suitable for everyday use as a camper. Compared to the L1, this brings almost 40 cm more length. L2 is the designation for the long wheelbase. Not only does this have the benefit of being able to 90% drive into all underground car parks, this camper height also circumvents problems with height restrictions in popular car parks. With H1, the Ford Transit has a vehicle height of less than 2m. This abbreviation hides the information about the height of the vehicle and the wheelbase variant. For the Ford Transit Camper extension we recommend the H1L2 version. The Ford bus is traditionally popular as the basis for various vehicle conversions, especially in Anglo-Saxon countries. I don't have many photos of the build process unfortunately.Insider circles have long known that a camper van can also be made by Ford. ![]() Happy to discuss further or offer insight where needed. Reading lights (mounted lights next to curtains). Small dimmer switch for under sink lights. ![]() ~2-5 watt power draw once at tempīasic hand pump faucet + dog bowl converted sink Standard LED puck lights + sting lights as recommended by most all van folkĪlpicool C20 fridge - best bang for your buck fridge on the internet. Goal Zero Yeti 400 + Boulder 50 solar panel mounted up top Much lighter and smoother than what I would have built. Lucked out with some connections for this one. Minimal effort went into this side, will be covered with bed/couch cushions and largely unseen.ġ-off made by a conversion company that ended up unused on someone else's rig. Rear windows are all 5% tint as well to aid in this. Its main use is to keep the back of the van impossible to see when parked at trailheads, parking lots, etc. I'm not trying to be incognito with this van, but it can work with this curtain. It also helped reduce the head bonking when climbing from the driver seat to the back. I also didn't want to cover the sunroof entirely, so adding the shelf over just the passenger side was my solution. The cross beam itself is held by the aforementioned studs above the airbags, very solid. I knew I wanted to extend the overhead storage cubby, as I've seen in many conversions, but as with everything on this van it was a puzzle. Functions perfectly.Ĭross beam, curtain, extra storage shelf. The motor for the sunroof slider is up front, so not involved at all. The side planks are actually supported on the front end by the cross beam where the curtain is. For those that know, the glass actually goes from wall to wall inside the car, so adding studs around it was not an option. Cedar tongue and groove was placed to fit on the inside of the original sunroof outline. This creates a clean gap for the airbags while keeping them out of sight. It's super solid, and I wasn't expecting it to work this well. From there, I used metal braces to 'hang' a 1x3 below the airbags. It was actually pretty easy to mount what I was using for studs, 1x2s, above the airbag and around the components down the whole side of the van. Not the straightest cuts or fine detail, but I'm thrilled with out it turned out.ĭid not want to remove or fiddle with the sensor tricking. Posting here to show my solutions to some common challenges and share my build. This forum was a constant source of info for me, and I am very aware of the challenges of a passenger van conversion now. I recently finished a significant renovation to my passenger wagon, and wanted to share photos and info here. ![]()
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